The History of Wagyu in America is far more fascinating than most people realize. Many consumers assume Wagyu was imported to feed American steak lovers—but that’s not actually why it came here. In this episode of The Meat Dudes, Dr. Jerry Reeves of Bar R Wagyu shares the true story of how Wagyu genetics first entered the United States and how a completely unexpected event helped turn it into the booming industry we know today.
How Wagyu First Came to America
In the late 1980s, Dr. Jerry Reeves was a faculty member at Washington State University studying animal science when the university sent a team to Japan to study their beef market. The goal was simple: understand how U.S. beef could compete when Japanese meat tariffs were removed.
What Dr. Reeves and his team discovered changed everything—they had never seen beef like Japanese Wagyu before. The marbling, tenderness, and eating experience were unlike anything in the American grading system. Their recommendation was bold: import Wagyu genetics to the United States, cross them with American cattle, and produce beef for export back to Japan. That recommendation helped shape the History of Wagyu in America.
The Political Move That Made Wagyu Possible
Importing Wagyu cattle into the U.S. was not simple. According to Dr. Reeves, political support from then-Speaker of the House Tom Foley helped make the import permits possible.
Between 1993 and 1999, approximately:
- 30 full blood Wagyu bulls
- 200 full blood Wagyu females
were imported into the United States. At the time, nearly all Wagyu production was aimed at the Japanese export market—not American consumers.
How Mad Cow Disease Changed Everything
One of the most pivotal moments in the History of Wagyu in America came in 2003 when mad cow disease shut down U.S. beef exports to Japan.
Suddenly:
- Wagyu producers could no longer ship to Japan
- Hundreds of days’ worth of cattle were stuck in feedlots
- Wagyu meant for export had nowhere to go
That forced producers to sell Wagyu domestically.
At the time, most Americans had never heard of Wagyu. Producers had to educate restaurants, butchers, and consumers from scratch—often using the term “Kobe” simply because people recognized it.
Ironically, what looked like disaster became the catalyst that built the American Wagyu market.
Why Wagyu Took Off in the U.S.
Dr. Reeves believes Wagyu exploded in popularity for one simple reason:
It’s a better eating experience.
According to him, Wagyu was the first breed of cattle brought into the U.S. selected primarily for quality rather than muscle production.
As more consumers tasted it, demand naturally grew.
Today:
- Wagyu is replacing Certified Angus as the premium beef status symbol
- U.S. consumers are embracing both full blood and crossbred Wagyu
- American-style Wagyu has become its own category distinct from Japanese A5
Why Dr. Jerry Reeves Prefers American-Style Wagyu
Interestingly, Dr. Reeves notes that many Americans—including his own family—prefer American crossbred Wagyu over ultra-rich Japanese A5.
His thoughts:
- F1 Cross Wagyu offers excellent marbling while still eating like a steak
- Full blood/A5-style marbling can be too rich for American preferences
- The American consumer often wants a larger, more beef-forward steak experience
This reinforces one of The Meat Dudes’ favorite talking points:
Wagyu is a spectrum—not just A5.
Final Thoughts on the History of Wagyu in America
Without Dr. Jerry Reeves and a handful of early pioneers, American Wagyu likely would not exist as we know it today.
The History of Wagyu in America is a story of:
- Innovation
- Political timing
- Unexpected market disruption
- And a product so good that consumers demanded more once they tasted it
What started as an export play became one of the fastest-growing premium beef categories in the country.
And we’re still just getting started.
