When you hear “Wagyu,” you probably think of misty Japanese mountains, pristine ranches, and cattle treated like royalty.
But today, Wagyu beef isn’t just a Japanese treasure — it’s an American obsession.
Here’s how Wagyu cattle made the leap across the Pacific, how pioneers like Dr. Jerry Reeves shaped its future, and why American Wagyu is now in a golden era. This is how Wagyu Beef came to America.
First, What Exactly Is Wagyu?
“Wagyu” translates simply to “Japanese Cow” (Wa = Japanese, Gyu = Cow).
It refers to four specific native breeds:
- Japanese Black (Kuroge Washu) — Legendary for its insane marbling.
- Japanese Brown (Akage Washu) — Leaner but still flavorful.
- Japanese Shorthorn — Known for savory umami flavors.
- Japanese Polled — Rare, with a focus on meat quality over marbling.
In Japan, Wagyu cattle are national treasures. Their lineage is recorded in meticulous detail, and for much of history, it was illegal to export any Wagyu genetics.
The Japan Meat Grading Association (JMGA) developed a strict grading system, with the Beef Marbling Standard (BMS) ranking marbling on a 1–12 scale — and A5 BMS 12 being the ultimate prize.
How Wagyu Came to the United States
The Early Trickles (1970s–1980s)
- A few Wagyu cattle first arrived in the U.S. during the 1970s, mainly for research purposes at universities like Texas A&M.
- These early imports were not intended for commercial beef production — they were part of genetic studies to improve U.S. cattle traits.
The Big Break (1990s)
The real Wagyu wave didn’t hit America until the early 1990s:
- In 1993 and 1994, Japan loosened restrictions briefly, allowing a small number of Wagyu cattle and frozen embryos to be exported.
- Legendary names like Dr. Jerry Reeves (Washington State University), Al and Marie Wood, and breeders from Bar R Wagyu led the charge, securing some of the first Fullblood genetics.
- Famous bulls like Michifuku, Monjiro, Haruki II, and Takazakura were part of these early imports — bloodlines that would shape American Wagyu forever.
Fun fact:
According to historical records from the American Wagyu Association and detailed accounts in The Wagyu Book by Toshiyuki Watanabe, only about 200 to 300 Wagyu cattle and embryos were ever exported from Japan to the United States before exports were permanently banned in 1997.
Today, virtually every authentic Wagyu animal in America can trace its lineage back to those rare and invaluable early imports.
How American Wagyu Took Off
American Wagyu isn’t just Japanese Wagyu copied and pasted.
It evolved into something distinct and delicious:
- Crossbreeding: Ranchers cross Wagyu with (generally) Angus cattle (F1 crosses) to combine rich marbling with bold American steakhouse flavor.
- Fullblood Focus: Others, like Dr. Reeves’ Bar R Wagyu, preserved pure Fullblood lines — 100% Wagyu, with verified Japanese ancestry.
- Grain Finishing: American Wagyu can be grain-finished for 300, creating buttery marbling adapted to American tastes.
- Bigger Frames: Compared to Japan’s smaller cattle, U.S. Wagyu tend to be larger, thanks to feeding programs and different breeding goals.
As Dr. Reeves put it on The Meat Dudes Podcast:
“With Wagyu, genetics matter. Feed matters. Low-stress handling matters. You can’t shortcut your way to good Wagyu.”
Where American Wagyu Is Heading
Explosive Growth
The American Wagyu Association (AWA) reports that U.S. Wagyu beef production and membership have been skyrocketing over the last decade.
Smarter Consumers
More buyers now:
- Demand verified Wagyu lineage.
- Understand the difference between real Wagyu and fake “Kobe-style” beef.
- Recognize BMS scores as a quality benchmark.
Quality Over Quantity
Top breeders focus less on mass production and more on genetic preservation and marbling excellence.
Global Recognition
American Wagyu is no longer “second best.”
It’s winning awards worldwide and carving out its own reputation for producing world-class marbled beef.
The story of how Wagyu beef came to America is about vision, passion, and persistence.
Without pioneers like Dr. Jerry Reeves, Bar R Wagyu, and a few daring breeders in the ’90s, we wouldn’t have the thriving American Wagyu industry we enjoy today.
Now, with new generations of ranchers pushing genetics, flavor, and marbling even further, American Wagyu is stepping confidently into a bold future — not as a copycat, but as a world leader in premium beef.
Stay curious. Stay hungry. Stay Wagyu smart.
— The Meat Dudes
How Wagyu Beef Came to America:
Dr. Jerry Reeves is a veterinarian, cattle geneticist, and one of the founding figures behind the American Wagyu movement. In the early 1990s, he helped import some of the first Fullblood Wagyu embryos from Japan, establishing bloodlines that would become critical to the breed’s success in the U.S. Through his work at Crescent Harbor Ranch and later Bar R Wagyu, Dr. Reeves championed careful genetic selection, low-stress cattle handling, and long-term breeding programs. His influence can still be seen today in the quality and integrity of American Wagyu herds across the country.
Al and Marie Wood were among the first American ranchers to recognize the potential of Wagyu cattle. In the early 1990s, they helped import some of the very first Fullblood Wagyu genetics from Japan, including legendary bulls like Michifuku and Monjiro. Their pioneering efforts laid the foundation for the American Wagyu industry, with many of today’s bloodlines tracing directly back to their original imports. Without their early vision and dedication, Wagyu beef might never have taken root in the United States.
